| In flatweaving there are a number of
different types of loom and weaving techniques but for purposes
herein, the various types can be catogorized into two general
groups. The first grouping contains the basic flatweave technique,
or "kilim weaving". In a kilim, the pattern is formed by
passing a yarn of a particular colour over and over and under the
vertical yarns (known as warps) for the duration of the particular
colour or design motif, then the same horizontal yarn (known as
weft) is turned on the same path (next row) along the edge of the
same coloured motif. This process is continued until the
individual motif is completed. Then the next motif is started
where the initial one finishes, but the two yarn colours are not
normally joined together in anyway, thus causing a slit to appear
between the two respective yarns. Each block of colour is then
woven succesively until the whole kilim is completed. When you
hold a kilim woven in this way up to the light, you can easily see
the slits where two patterns meet but do not join. The second
grouping contains flatweaves which employ the technique of way
wrapping or brocading.
A motif is created by adding a third yarn to the warp and weft
yarns which is wrapped arround the warp yarns in several
configirations depent upon whether the intent is to weave Cicim,
Zili, or Sumak. In Cicim, the motifs are usually scattered or in
series, with no organic relationship between any two motifs, and
the basic ground weave (warp and weft) shows through so that the
Cicim motifs appear to be embroidered. In Zili the entire surface
of the ground weave is normally covered with the design yarns and
vertical lines, somewhat like cords, protrude to give Zili its
distinctive appearance. In Sumak, the entire surface is also
normally covered with the design yarns. All three techniques may
be employed together in one flatweave if desired. Each of the 4
basic types of flat-weave also has a number of sub-groups with
variations in technique (23 total).
There are two principal types of knots that are used in rug
weaving. The first one is called double knot, Turkish knot, or
Gordes knot and naturally given a firmer weave yielding to a
stronger and more durable carpet. The second one is known as the
single knot, Persian knot, or Sennah knot.
The Turkish knot is standart of yarn encirling two warp
threads, with the loose ends rawn tightly between the two warps.
The Persian knot is a strand of yarn that encircles one warp
threads and winds loosely around the other warp. One loose end
pulled through the two warps, while the other end goes to the
outside of the paired warps.
Rugs and the various flatwaves are made from five basic
materials; sheep wool, goat hair, cotton, floss silk, and silk.
The quality of wool varies according to the climate, the breed of
sheep, and the time of year of the shearing. Wool from sheep that
live in warm and arid regions is normally dry and brittle, and
since it breaks so easly, it ends up being short and feels
lifeless. Good quality wool comes from helthy and well fed sheep
found in cold regions or at high elevations with good grazing
lands and lots of water. In the colder regions, sheep grow a full
fleece to keep warm and their bodies store fat which then
translates to a high lanolin content within the fiber which
reaches lengths of 10 cm. and more. The wool so obtained feels
silky smooth and yet springy. Wool from the higher elevations
(cooler also) and from the spring shearing is considered to be the
highest quality. Wool is hand-spun by using primative utensils
called kirmen (drop spindle) and by spinning wheels. Women usually
spin the wool during idle moments and the street while spinning.
In hand-spun wool, the original length of the fiber stays the same
through the spinning process - a fiber tahat measured 7 cm. before
spinning will still measure the same after spinning. Wool can also
industrially spun, but the hard twisting of the fibers by the
spinning machines tends to berak some of the fibers. Although the
broken bits and shorter fibers can be made to adhere together
through the use of oils during the spinning process, the fiber
will have lost some of its strength, which, in turn, will shorten
the life spun of the rugs to be woven.
In rug and kilim weaving, cotton is used mostly for the warp
threads, as well as for the wefts. Compaired to wool, cotton is
generally considered to be a more residant fiber and it is less
elastic. So, tighter knots can be tied on cotton warps as opposed
to wool. If very tight knot are tied to a wool warp, the fiber
will break much more frequantly than if the warps were of cotton.
Consequentl, woolen pile rugs with high knoting density counts
will normally have cotton warps, for example, in Hereke, Ladik,
and Kayseri Bunyan carpets.
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